![]() ![]() ![]() With a re-curve kit, you replace that bushing, some guys weld the slot) and set the timing back to 36* 3000rpm with no vacuum advance, let the initial fall where it may. That allows way more range in mech advance. On an old stock dizzy that has the little peg in the slot that limits the mechanical timing amount, the little peg has a bushing that often falls off after 30-40 years. The amount of total, 36*, is what the engine likes and it stays the same. ![]() If after you find the total that your engine likes, and you're not happy with the idle, vac advance amount, or the timing curve, you adjust each one of those, but not the total. Most often plugging in the vacuum advance will bring the initial up enough it idles just fine on the street, and there's no need to consider the initial timing. If your engine likes 36* (most non-vortec sbc do), then set it at 36* and go drive. Set it to 10* at idle, and you may only have 30* total and wonder why your moms Dodge Caravan has more snap. If you just set your initial to 18* because that what your buddy told you to do, you may well wind up with 45* total, and a sound like a little man with a hammer is in your engine at anything above idle. If your initial is not what your engine likes, the worst that will happen is a poor idle. The reason behind, 'letting the initial fall where it may', is the total is what will kill your engine if not reasonably correct. ![]()
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